Below I've gone through exactly what you'll need to set up a successful fish tank, I've also incorporated some links to products I recommend.  If you have any specific questions, feel free to email me at askmissfishy@gmail.com.

What kind of tank should I buy? 

Generally, bigger is better.  The reason for this is that the larger water volumes allow for more mistakes in water quality, temperature, overstocking, etc.  Larger volumes of water hold heat in, thus creating a more stable water temperature.  It also allows a larger area for any water contaminates to dilute.  A fish bowl is not an adequate home for any fish.  The smallest tank I would start with is a 10 gallon, anything smaller and you are asking for trouble.  Your tank will also need a lid and probably a light if you want to see your fish.  A lid keeps the fish from jumping out and also helps with evaporation of the water.  As for the lighting, any lighting will work for the basic set up.  For a planted tank with live plants, you will need more specific lighting (not covered here.)  You can usually purchase a basic lightstrip that is sized to fit your lid.

Filtration? 

There are many different routes you can take to filter your new tank.  Outlined below are several methods of filtration, some better than others. For beginners, I would recommend getting a HOB filter.  Or if you plan to vacuum your gravel regularly, a sponge filter will work as well.

  • Hang on Back (HOB): 

    A HOB filter sucks water in through an intake tube in the tank and then circulates it through usually a sponge or insert of some sort (filter media), then pushes it back out into the tank through a small water fall.  Another variation of this is the BioWheel HOB filter.  This works much in the same way as a regular HOB, but incorporates a spinning "bio" wheel that acts as the bacteria media.  Any HOB filter incorporates biological and mechanical filtration.  This is an example of a HOB Filter on Amazon.

  • Sponge: 

    A sponge filter works with biological filtration (more on that under "Cycling a Tank").  The sponge acts as a breeding ground for a colony of beneficial bacteria in a tank.  The sponge is usually connected to an air pump.  The air pump pumps air through a tube into the filter which channels the air bubbles up to the surface.  This creates water circulation within the tank as well as gas exchange at the surfact of the water.  This method uses mostly biological filtration.

  • Under Gravel Filter (UGF): 

    A UGF filter is usually considered an inadequate method of filtration in modern aquaria.  This method involves a filter plate that covers the entire bottom of the tank.  An air pump pumps air through two tubes on either side of the tank that creates water circulation and an updraft that "sucks" debris down into the gravel.  The problem with this method of "filtration" is that a lot of debris gets trapped below the filter plates where it stays until you uproot the entire tank to clean beneath the plate.  I do not recommend this method of filtration.

Do I need a heater? 

Most tanks that have tropical fish will need heaters (including bettas!).  A tropical fish tank needs to maintain a temperature between 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit.  Only the warmest climates will maintain that temperature 24 hours a day, year round.  Even if you live in a warm climate, the temperature of your home may decrease significantly at night, thus cooling the tank.  Constant temperature is important.  An in water thermometer is imperative to make sure your temperature is constant and correct.  The general rule is 5 watts of heat per gallon of water.  So a 10 gallon tank would need 50 watts of heat (5 watts per gallon x 10 gallons of water = 50 watt heater).   These are cheaply ordered online, this one will work.  The submersible ones are a good idea so you don't have to worry about your water level.

Gravel Vacuum/Water Siphon:

  This is a necessity.  This item will help you do water changes (look under "Cycling a Tank") and help you clean the gravel in your tank.  The basic ones are usually very affordable ($6 for a basic on on Amazon).  However, for a larger tank, you may need to invest in a "Python" gravel vacuum ($30 from Amazon).  For the beginner, a basic gravel vacuum should be sufficient for any tank less than 29 gallons.  Also, don't forget the bucket!  It is very helpful to pick up a 5 gallon painting bucket for water changes.  These can be found at most hardware stores.

Test Kit:

  A test kit is very important.  See the "Cycling a Tank" section for more info on why this is necessary.  What you need to buy is a test kit that uses drops, not strips.  A good option is a "Freshwater Master Test Kit" (available at  for around $17 on Amazon).  This test kit incorporates Ph, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate into one, a really good deal.  Otherwise you can purchase all of these seperately, you will need all four. 

Water Conditioner:

  This is also a MUST.  Tap water comes with chlorine and chloramine in it to kill off bacteria.  Apparently people want to drink bacteria free water...go figure.  Anyways, fish need bacteria, as described in the "Cycling a Tank" section.  To do this, simply buy a bottle of water conditioner that removes both chlorine and chloramine (check the label), and add as directed everytime you add water to your tank.  I recommend staying away from any that say they will "lock ammonia away" or "neutralize" anything, these can mess up your tank cycle and just waste your time and money.

Shopping List:

  1. Tank (A local fish store or grocery store usually sells these cheaply)

  2. Filtration (Try this one, or one like it to start)

  3. Water Conditioner (Basic water conditioner)

  4. Lid

  5. Heater (These are cheaper online)

  6. Thermometer (an in tank, not stick on)

  7. Gravel Vacuum

  8. Test Kit (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and PH)

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